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Spring Summer 2017 New York Fashion Week

1. There Was a Lot to Celebrate This Week

Paris Fashion Week marked a few important milestones: The designer Dries Van Noten held his 100th runway show, a celebratory marker of a brilliant career. The collection, which featured vibrant prints, oversize silhouettes and jewel-toned faux fur jackets, was modeled by the greatest names in the business, including Amber Valletta, Nadja Auermann and Kirsten Owen — all models who have walked in Van Noten’s shows since 1993. Later in the week, Jean Touitou of A.P.C. celebrated his 30th year in business with an intimate show at the brand’s studio on the Left Bank. The collection was about simplicity, but done well: there were no-fuss denim jackets, pants, trench coats and military dresses.

2. A Fashion Family Dinner

Humberto Leon and Carol Lim know how to put on a show. At an intimate affair in their Kenzo showroom in Paris, the design duo introduced La Collection Memento N°1 — the first in a new series inspired by the label’s archives. A live band set the tone, and a comforting, family-style dinner of Syrian food (tabbouleh, baba ganoush and fried kibbeh) followed. A live performance by Lauryn Hill closed out the spectacular evening. If only all fashion shows could be so nice.

3. The Balenciaga Show Was Spectacular

The set for the Balenciaga show, which was held in the basement of the Espace Champerret Salon Saveurs, featured wall-to-wall carpet emblazoned with the brand’s logo. The collection featured reworked trench coats, floral dresses and voluminous knits — but what really dazzled were the final nine looks, all reissued couture dresses from the archives, which were incorporated in the show to celebrate the brand’s 100th anniversary.

4. The Undercover Show Was the Most Artistic of the Week

This season, more than ever, designers stuck to traditional runway presentations for their shows. But not Jun Takahashi, the designer of Undercover, who has become known for theatrical presentations that feel more like pieces of performance art than runway shows. Set to a soundtrack by the designer’s friend and collaborator Thom Yorke, the show featured a series of vignettes starring different archetypes: soldiers, aristocrats, clergy members and mythical, birdlike creatures. It culminated with an Elizabethan-like queen, whose hair was molded into ramlike horns, moving beautifully around the stage.


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